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All Tomorrow’s Patterns

Ezio part two: swallowtails

by Gillian on November 3, 2014, no comments

I skimmed over the patternmaking side of things a little bit with the shirt post, because I felt like that pattern was pretty straightforward as such things go, and it would be easy enough to adapt from a premade pattern if you were so inclined. (I typically don’t because I enjoy patternmaking, I’ve already drafted a set of blocks to my own measurements, and I have a venomous dislike of fitting,  but a lot of people feel differently about this.)

Ezio’s outer layers, though, are a little more interesting, if only because the shapes are so iconic. Based mostly on the way the layers came together at the collar and sleeves, I determined that I was looking at two distinct garments. One a short-sleeved jacket with long pointed tails and a wide collar; one a hip-length jerkin with puffed and slashed raglan sleeves and of course the pointed hood. I sketched out the under-layer first, since I’d need to have it done in order to fit the jerkin over the top of it, and hauled out my roll of pattern paper.

ezio costume sketch

This sketch was very early in the process, and I notice I forgot the sleeves. I also went with a shoulder princess seam in both front and back instead of doing an armhole princess in the front.

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